Here is an “On the Road”, a sort of ode to Jack Keroac by Dan Barth, a poet and writer living on the Russian River in Talmage.
The Road to Alamogordo
Fraught with perils and pitfalls.
Did you think it would be easy
to get to A-bomb city?
1. Calexico Blues
Whither goest thou Americans,
In your aggressive American cars?
It was on Interstate 8 outside of Calexico that Ben and Annie’s troubles started. Hitching from San Felipe to Mexicali and Calexico had been no problem.
“I love Mexicans,” said Annie.
“Yep,” said Ben. “If they’ve got a pickup truck we’ve got a ride.”
“No problemo,” said Annie.
“Si,” said Ben.
“So what now, senor? These Norte Americanos don’t seem to be stopping.”
“Let’s make a sign that says NEW MEXICO.”
“Good idea.”
Annie pulled her sketchpad and pens from her pack and began to make the sign. She did not see the cop car coming. Ben saw it in time to drop his thumb and adopt the usual look-the-other-way attitude. But the cop stopped. He was a California State Trooper, Highway Patrol, with Smokey the Bear hat and requisite mirror shades.
“Howdy,” said Ben.
“What are you two doing out here?”
“This is where we got dropped off.”
“You know it’s illegal to hitch up here on the highway.”
“No sir, we didn’t know that.”
“I’m gonna hafta give you a ticket.”
“We’ll go down the ramp,” said Annie.
“You sure will, after I write out your tickets. Let’s see some I.D.”
Ben took his driver’s license from his wallet. Annie dug in her pack for hers, hoping she wouldn’t come across any pot first.
The cop took their licenses and walked back to his car.
“Wait here,” he told them.
“Shit,” said Ben as soon as the cop was out of hearing.
“This sucks,” said Annie.
They waited. In a few minutes the cop came back with their I.D’s and tickets.
“Now get on down the ramp,” he said.
They grabbed their packs and guitar and did so.
“What a drag, ” said Ben. “Fucking asshole cop!”
“Now what?” asked Annie.
“I guess we hitch the ramp.”
Annie sat down and finished the NEW MEXICO sign. Ben hitched the few cars that were getting on the ramp. There was not much traffic. After two hours they decided to walk back to Calexico and try hitching Highway 98 to Yuma.
In Calexico, Ben went into a mini-mart and bought beer and peanuts. Annie was much happier once she had a beer in her hand. They sat in the shade drinking beer and eating peanuts. After awhile they walked out Highway 98 past the high school to the edge of town.
“Well,” said Ben, “we’re hardly closer to Alamogordo than we were four hours ago. But there’s more traffic out here. We’ll get a ride.”
Several hours went by. They didn’t get a ride. Eventually they gave up and decided to walk back to town and get something to eat. They ended up at Owens Drive-In Restaurant where the menu featured rice, beans, tamales, tacos, enchiladas, monster burgers and fried chicken. GOOD WATER proclaimed a sign over the counter. Ben ordered a taco. Annie went for French fries and a salad. They sat down and drank some of the good water. The clock on the wall read 7:05 PM.
On a sudden inspiration Annie called Greyhound to see how much a bus ride would cost. She reported back shortly. “$8.50 each to Yuma.”
“That’s about $4.50 each too much.”
The food came. They sat eating and talked over their options. Ben pulled out a pen and notebook and made a list:
Choice A — hitch out 98 toward Yuma
Choice B — out 111 to I-8
Choice C — to El Centro on I-8
Choice D — go back to Mexico
Choice E — surrender to the local authorities
Choice F — go to sleep in Owens Drive-In
Choice G — maybe Trailways is cheaper
They had finally noticed the Trailways bus station right across the street. Annie walked across to check. Ben ordered coffee. In about two minutes Annie came running back breathless. “Gulp your coffee and grab your pack. We’ve got a free ride to Indio!”
“What?”
“Come on. I talked to a bus driver. He’s just getting ready to drive an empty bus to Indio and he’ll give us a ride.”
“Indio’s only about two hundred miles out of our way.”
“I don’t care, at least we’ll be the fuck out of here.”
“Okay. Maybe he’ll drop us in El Centro.”
2. Another On-Ramp In California
El Centro,
Where the cops are assholes.
The bus driver was happy to oblige. He dropped Annie and Ben at an I-8 on-ramp in El Centro. Two hitchhikers were already there, a tall, long-haired guy in leather jacket, jeans and boots, and a smaller, short-haired guy in denim jacket, jeans and sneakers. The tall guy said he had just gotten a ticket for hitching on the highway. He introduced himself as Tony and said he was heading for Evansville, Indiana. The other guy, Paul, was headed for San Antonio, Texas with no bag or pack, just the clothes on his back and a harmonica in his pocket. After talking to these two guys Ben and Annie walked to a nearby Seven-Eleven store.
“I like pesos better than dollars,” said Annie.
“Why’s that?”
“They’re more colorful.”
“Well, why don’t you use one of those drab dollars and buy us some coffee?”
“Okay.”
They sat in front of the Seven-Eleven and drank the coffee, biding their time and hoping the other two hitchhikers would get a ride. When the friendlier Seven-Eleven customers said, “Howdy,” they said, “Hi, you’re not heading for Arizona, are you?” Nobody was.
Around 10 P.M. they walked back to the ramp. The other two hitchhikers were gone. “All right,” said Ben, “I guess they got a ride.”
They hitched with no success. A car pulled over, a dark-colored sedan. The driver was a sleazy looking fat man who wouldn’t say where he was going. “Just get in,” he said. They declined.
An hour went by. “What the hell,” said Ben. “Let’s try the highway.”
“Why not?” said Annie.
No sooner had they walked to the top of the ramp than a cop showed up and gave them another ticket. They walked back down the ramp, disgusted. The other two hitchhikers were there.
“We thought you got a ride,” said Annie.
“No such luck,” said Tony. “We’ve been to the liquor store. Would you like a beer or some schnapps?”
“Both,” said Annie.
“Hell yes,” said Ben.
They all sat down beside the ramp, smoked a joint and drank beer and schnapps. A cool wind had picked up out of the west.
“I came across from San Diego last night,” said Tony. “There was snow in the mountains.”
Around midnight they all decided to walk a mile or so to another on-ramp.
“Maybe we’ll have better luck there,” said Paul.
“Can’t be much worse,” said Ben.
They hoisted their gear and walked through the quiet El Centro suburbs to another on-ramp near another Seven-Eleven mecca. At the new ramp they took turns hitching but there wasn’t much traffic. They drank more beer and smoked more pot. No rides. Ben got out his guitar and Paul jammed with him on harmonica. No rides. Annie and Tony walked to the Seven-Eleven for more coffee. They came back. No rides. Finally around 3 A.M. they all crashed under a little Hawaiian pine in the cloverleaf.
In the morning Ben was up first. He walked to the Seven-Eleven and bought some apple juice. The clerk from the night before was just getting off work. He looked tired.
When Ben walked back, another hitchhiker was on the ramp.
“Where are you heading?” asked Ben.
“I don’t know and I don’t care,” said the guy. “Florida’s a drag. California’s a bust.”
“Try New Orleans,” Ben advised.
The graffiti on back of the on-ramp sign was more cheerful than this guy. There were names, dates, hometowns and destinations, and a few longer comments like: “Beam me up Scotty, no sign of intelligent life here,” and “I’m hungry, thirsty and confused. Started walking east. — Amelia Earhart.” Ben pulled out his felt-tip pen and wrote:
Some people are born to be assholes.
This becomes more obvious to me every day.
Many of them are State Troopers in Southern California –
That’s how they make their pay.
Ben woke Annie. They rolled up their sleeping bags and walked to Hobo Joe’s Restaurant where they ordered tea and used the restrooms to wash up before hitting the road. Once again they hitched the ramp without success. A hitchhiker heading west stopped to talk.
“Where you headin’?” he asked.
“Yuma,” said Ben.
“I just came from Yuma. The big news there is that four people were killed by a hitchhiker yesterday.”
“Great,” said Ben. “No wonder no one wants to give us a ride.”
They decided to walk back down to the Seven-Eleven and ask for rides. Ben walked up to a car with Arizona plates. “Are you driving to Arizona?” he asked the driver, a pleasant looking man in his thirties.
“No, not today, but could you use some money?”
This took Ben by surprise. “Well, I gotta admit we’re a little low.”
“How does ten sound?”
“It sounds great!”
The man pulled a ten-dollar bill from his pocket and handed it to Ben.
“Thanks a lot!”
“Do you know the Lord?” the man asked.
“Sure,” said Ben. “Thanks again.”
“Praise God!” said the man.
“Amen,” said Ben.
By this time Tony and Paul had awakened and were on their way in to Seven-Eleven for coffee.
“How’s it going?” asked Tony.
“Great,” said Ben. “A guy just gave me ten dollars.”
“Yeah, sure,” said Tony. “And I’m waiting here for my limo.”
“No, really. Look. Coffee’s on me.”
“Wow,” said Paul. “What a trip. That’s almost as good as Tony’s story.”
“What’s that?”
“He says he walked in his sleep last night all the way to the other on-ramp.”
“Are you serious?” Ben asked Tony.
“Yeah. I woke up in the other Seven-Eleven and had to walk all the way back here.”
“You sure you weren’t dreaming?”
“No, I swear. It really happened.”
“That’s wild. And you don’t believe a guy gave me ten dollars?”
“I guess anything’s possible in this crazy place. Now if we could all just get rides, that would be truly amazing.”
They all drank coffee and sat around talking outside the Seven-Eleven. Annie and Ben finally decided to walk to the edge of town and hitch to Indio. They felt rather foolish since they could have had a ride to Indio with the Trailways driver the night before, and it was still 200 miles out of their way, but at this point they were willing to try anything to get out of El Centro.
A car pulled over with two young women up front and three small children in the back. Annie and Ben climbed in back and talked to the kids while getting a ride about ten miles out of town.
3. Indio
How about a date?
One more good ride took them to Indio. The driver was with a very articulate dark-skinned man named Sherman. Sherman had retired to Southern California after a career in law enforcement in Missouri. He told them he was from New Orleans originally—of French, Creole and Amerindian blood. Annie was amazed by his eyes. They had dark brown irises with dark blue around the edge of the brown. He drove a very nicely equipped Dodge van. It had a fold-out bed and a built-in refrigerator. It even had some kind of computer drive mechanism.
Sherman was going fishing near Indio but gave them a ride into town first. He dropped them on Highway 86 where they could see a big sign that said INDIO—DATE CAPITAL OF THE WORLD, and another smaller one at a fruit stand: Date Milkshakes, 95 Cents.
“Hey baby, how about a date . . . milkshake?” asked Ben.
“Okay, big boy. You buying?”
“Yes ma’am.”
They got their date milkshakes and were walking out to the Interstate 10 on-ramp in a swirling wind when they met a hitchhiker walking the other way.
“Howdy,” said Ben. “What’s the word?”
“Aw man, this place sucks. I been on that ramp all day tryna hitch a ride to Arizona. Now I give up. I’m gonna hitch south to El Centro and then east on 8.”
“Don’t do that!” Ben and Annie both shouted. They explained why.
“Well shit,” said the guy. “That ramp’s no good. There’s already a bunch of people up there not gettin’ rides.”
At an impasse, they all sat down together and Annie made a general purpose sign saying EAST. One car stopped, but only to offer them a ride to the ramp. Ben noticed a copy of The Grapes Of Wrath on the front seat. The wind was blowing hard and dust was billowing all around.
They declined the ride and hitched some more. The other hitchhiker gave up and walked into town.
Near sundown Annie and Ben had an argument. She wanted to walk to the nearest truck stop and ask for rides. He wanted to walk to the ramp and up the ramp to hitch the highway. Ben won on a coin toss and they started walking. The wind had died down and darkness was coming on.
When they hit the highway Annie sat on the packs pouting and Ben hitched energetically. He felt like he was rolling dice, like he had to get lucky before another cop came along to give them another ticket—come on, come on, come on, please . . . Yes! Yes! A big rig geared down and pulled over. They ran up and happily climbed in. The driver was a young, bearded guy heading to Blythe to load lettuce for Salt Lake City. His name was Van and he was from Provo, Utah. He was a very friendly, deep-voiced, talkative guy. He had a little tv in the sleeper. They plugged it in to the cigarette lighter and fooled with it awhile. All they could get was one Mexican station and two stations with Buddy Hackett hosting “You Bet Your Life.” The reception was poor so they soon gave it up, put the tv away, and played the radio the rest of the way to Blythe, about 100 miles.
Van dropped Annie and Ben at a ramp and went to get in line to get loaded at a nearby produce warehouse. They tried hitching for an hour or so with no luck. Giving it up, they walked to some trees near a wash behind the produce warehouse, rolled out their sleeping bags and crashed in some soft grass.
By morning a heavy dew had turned to light frost. Up early, they rolled their bags, hoisted packs, walked to McDonald’s for coffee, and by 7 A.M. were on the road again.
4. The Further Adventures Of Bad Art
It was then I knew that Ben was flirting
with death, or worse, for this was Bad Art.
Eric Crockett,
“The Story of Bad Art and the Wood Screws”
An hour later they were considering a trek back to McDonald’s for a McMuffin when a guy in a van pulled over to offer a ride.
Ben looked in. “Where ya headin’?”
“Just across the border into Arizona, about twenty-five miles.”
“Great.”
They opened the van’s side door, threw in their gear and climbed aboard.
“My name’s Charley,” said the driver. “I was just about to light this joint.”
“Super,” said Annie.
They passed the joint as they rolled along. Charley was on his way home after working a graveyard shift at the produce warehouse. A half hour later they arrived stoned at a little trailer park on the Arizona side of the border where Charley lived with his wife and kid. Ben and Annie couldn’t believe how good it felt to finally be out of California. Everything seemed calm and peaceful and friendly and hopeful in Arizona.
“You guys hungry?” asked Charley.
“Munch, munch,” said Annie.
“Come on in,” said Charley.
Charley’s wife, Sally, was up with their baby watching Saturday morning cartoons on the tube. Breakfast was yogurt, fruit and granola, which they all wolfed down. Then Charley asked Sally to make his new friends sandwiches for the road.
“How long have you lived here?” asked Annie.
“About six months,” said Sally. We moved here from Skamania County, Washington.”
“Hey, I used to live there,” said Ben. “I worked for the Forest Service near Carson.”
“Wow! Do you know Ron Himes? He worked for the Forest Service there.”
“No.”
“What about a big, tall redhead named Art Homestead.”
“Whoah,” said Ben. “That sounds like Bad Art.”
“What?”
“A friend of mine wrote a story about him.”
“Really?”
“Yeah. How is old Art?”
“Well, he got hurt pretty bad in a logging accident. His foot got crushed.”
“Whoah.”
“Yeah, but he sued the company and eventually got a settlement of twenty thousand dollars. Then do you know what he did? He spent about ten thousand on guitars, mikes, speakers, amps–all kinds of band equipment. Crazy. He had never played a lick in his life. Then for the Fourth of July he threw a big party and invited a whole bunch of people to come and play. We were there. It was wild. Now he’s starting his own company, Homestead Mountain Jam, Incorporated. What do you think of that?”
“I think it’s great.”
Annie and Ben thanked Sally for everything. Charley had fallen asleep on the couch. They walked back to the highway and hitched happily on.
In no time at all a semi with no trailer pulled over. They stowed their gear in the sleeper and settled in. The driver was Don, a fat, friendly guy in his early thirties, headed to Dallas to pick up nitrogen for offshore oil use in California. They bounced along in the unloaded rig. Near Casa Grande, Don stopped and bought a pizza and a 12-pack of beer. Then it was right back on the road. They partied along past Tucson to the Triple T Truck Stop where Don called it a day. Annie and Ben thanked him, and after using the restrooms went looking for their next ride.
In the truck stop parking lot a driver said, “Hi. Where ya headin’?”
“Alamogordo,” said Annie.
“Want a ride?”
“You bet,” said Ben.
“Well, I can get you most of the way there. I’m headin’ for San Antonio. I can drop you in Las Cruces or El Paso.”
“Great.”
They put their gear in the cab and waited while the driver got his thermos filled with coffee. “Man there’s a lot of people out hitchin’,” he said when he returned. “Must be Reagan refugees.”
Ben laughed and agreed.
The driver’s name was Doc. He looked pretty straight but to their surprise he produced a joint.
“I started in the Army,” he said. “Vietnam was one stoned gig.”
It was a good ride—couple of joints, couple of pit stops—and at 1 A.M. Doc dropped them near Las Cruces, New Mexico at the intersection of Interstate 10 and Interstate 25.
5. Organ?
A few final pitfalls and pratfalls.
Really, did you think it would be easy?
Doc had told them that Highway 70 to Alamogordo was two or three miles up 25. There wasn’t much traffic so they started walking.
It was closer to three miles than two, but they arrived at Highway 70 in about 45 minutes, tired. They were just about to call it a night and crash, when a car pulled over. The driver appeared to be pretty drunk.
“Howdy,” said Ben. “Where ya headin’?”
“Oregon.”
“Oregon?”
“Yeah. Hop in.”
“Whaddaya think?” Ben asked Annie.
“It’s a ride.”
“Okay.”
They climbed in and the driver started talking as he weaved along. “Uhh. . . let’s see. . . uhh. . . yes. . . uhh. . . like I say. . . uhh. . . you know what I. . . mean. I’m just an old hitchhikin’. . . hobo. . . myself.”
He acted like he was very drunk, very stoned, or had just gotten out of a mental hospital. Maybe all three. It turned out he wasn’t heading for Oregon but for Organ, a little town about 45 miles up the road toward Alamogordo. He managed to keep his car between the ditches, sometimes just barely, and they hit Organ about 3 A.M.
“Uhh. . . you can. . . uhh. . . you know. . . uhh. . . crash at my place,” he told them.
His “place” turned out to be an old Kenworth up on blocks in a vacant lot. Tired, Ben and Annie thanked him, thanked their lucky stars they had survived the ride, and rolled out their bags in some tall grass. A rooster crowed as they coldly found some sleep.
In the morning a chain saw woke them at nine o’clock. There was no cafe in Organ, so they combed their hair and brushed their teeth at a faucet. A warm sun cheered them as they resumed the hitch. A car pulled over, two Mexican guys in a station wagon on their way to Roswell.
“Buenos dias. Muchos gracias,” said Ben.
“De nada. De nada.”
The friendly Mexicans said they would drop them in Alamogordo. But near White Sands National Monument there was a Border Patrol roadblock. The station wagon was waved aside and everybody had to answer questions and show papers. Then the two Mexicans were asked inside the little guardhouse for further discussion. After about half an hour Ben and Annie were advised that they had best seek other transportation. “These boys won’t be goin’ no further.”
“Shit,” said Ben.
“Can we use your phone?” asked Annie.
“Yeah, if it’s a local call.”
Annie called her sister, Linda, in Alamogordo, who said she would come and get them. They wished the Mexicans “buena suerte” and walked over to the tourist shop at White Sands to have coffee and wait. Fifteen minutes later Linda showed up. They said hello and hugged her, then were chauffeured back to her suburban home. By that night, after showers, naps, and a spaghetti supper, on couches in the living room with Annie’s mom, sister, brother-in-law, nephew and dog, watching “Wild Kingdom” on tv, it all seemed like just a dream. The road to Alamogordo had been traveled, suffered and finally loved.
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revised March 1, 2007
Gary Trudeau Has It Right
I, Claudius Revisited; I, Bushius
Hail Caesar,
Hail to the Chief,
Hail to Hella Dubya.
The world is going to hail in a hand basket. I can tell you what I see and to me it looks like the Fall of Rome. In the year 1976 Robert Graves wanted us to see 50 AD yet he shows us a metaphor for 2008 AD. I see things through the technology of the 20th Century (I’d say the 21st but nothing has come along that takes the place of the 20th) and I’ve read a lot about the 21st and how it’s gonna be. A.C. Clarke showed us 2001 on film, and many contemporary Sci-Fi authors have tuned up the predictions and as with William Gibson’s ‘Cyber-Punk’, even given it an attitude.
The actual damage to civilization that Dubya will render begins with his functional fixedness concerning the present and future– lack of a Space
Program; restrictions on medicine and science; a return to Dark Ages
religious fervor.
The name ‘George’ goes with a Father-of -Our-Country image and his dad handed it down along with his ‘First Citizen’ status.
Emperor, dictator, president—all shop-worn Roman words, follow the word Caesar. Augustus Caesar following his great-uncle Julius, was the autocrat of a regime known as ‘The Principate’ since Augustus (the princeps, or first citizen) was theoretically answerable to the other citizens. Dubya theoretically was the choice of the other citizens.
For a Latin title for Dubya, we just can’t go on calling him that, I suggest Nero Galago Bushius. Nero I will soon clarify while Galago is self-evident. The small Galagos have tiny chins, funny noses, close set eyes, and huge ears that they can fold over. They are commonly known as Bush Babies.
I just watched the thirty two years old Masterpiece Theater series “I, Claudius” whose author Robert Graves also assisted in directing. I have concluded two things: it is portentous of the Galago Bushius administration, and single handedly the guiding star of all TV.
If TV ever got any better than this I haven’t seen it, yet most of its stars go unrecognized by today audiences.
Derek Jacobi is still knocking out terrific TV with his PBS Mystery “Brother Cadfael” series and plays a senator in the hit movie based on the Roman Empire, “Gladiator”. He is the soul of this Robert Graves production making Claudius, the Emperor/ historian live for us fans of ancient history. What audience or production cast in the USA really understands ancient history anyway? This nearly all-British cast possibly really shines because they have lived in and seen a world of an older culture.
John Hurt had the Alien pop out of his chest about 3 years after he popped the baby out of his sister’s womb as Caligula. He’s still knocking out good movies. I enjoyed Hurt in “Contact”, a vastly underrated movie and additional evidence that the final decadence has set in. Audiences shunned “Contact”, a movie without a hundred rounds per minute shot off while daring to call itself science fiction. As it was written by the scientist/ futurist Carl Sagan, it exists like “I, Claudius” as food for thought, not fluff for viscera.
Patrick Stewart of course can’t shake his character Picard, a Captain he played as one of the few interesting futuristic personalities in a spin off of Star Trek. It was great to see Stewart in the role of Sejanus, Commander of the Roman Praetorian Guard. Sejanus gives the Picard sneer once too many times and the Roman Senate eviscerate him. Could it only have happened as well on deck of the Starship Enterprise.
The actresses often carried the show in “I, Claudius” but I couldn’t tell you their names. Obviously they played in Shakespearean or Greek theater before this.
“So what?” you may well respond. So the second millennium rolls around and we see a flashback of the first (or is it zero-eth?)! Now we have the WTO Senate of the Imperialist Roman Empire. George Bush Sr. is Caligula. Condolessa Rice is the great Roman General Macro.
Similarly to history, Hillary calls for a return to the Republic. She swings her 44 percent to determine the next Presidency (Caesar). But the Republic is naught because the Romans (Americans) are too spoiled on the Emperorship that gave them more wine and more circuses. I’d say ‘bread’ but the Empire is turning farmlands to strip-malls and vineyards.
Reagan set this stage. He is Tiberius, a senile overly mothered tyrant who has no vision but loves power. His war in the North (Russia =Germany) routs the Germans but leaves his country over-taxed. He dies and his mad nephew (going by the name given him as a young mascot to the Roman Legion, ‘Little Boots’) takes power.
Caligula (Bush Sr.) continues to war against the East and North even though the enemy is vanquished. He goes to war with Germany and returns with an all German Imperial Guard (Bush’s role against Iran during his Vice Presidency under Reagan that has him arm Iraq). Unlike the German Imperial Guard, Iraq becomes our enemy even as Iran is an uneasy ally.
When the despot Claudius comes to power, people think him a fool, thus he survives to become Governor of Arkansas and then President. He longs to restore the Republic, marries an overly ambitious woman who plots his ruin then becomes as much a Caesar as the others. He realizes as he tries to support the rightful heir to the throne, Britannicus (Obama), that Obama will not restore the Republic and that liberalism is seen as old fashioned and unnecessary by the plebeians. He secures sex from a wanton woman and then lies. This assures that Nero, not Hillary will come to power. Claudius sees that the way to restore the republic is “to nurture a viper close to the bosom of Rome”. His people’s cry for true democracy will arise from desperate circumstance. .
Nero Galago Bushius is too ignorant, too unimaginative, and more incestuously tainted than the original Nero to even hold the bow of a fiddle.
Maybe gas shortages, P.G.&E’s tripling their energy rates during the rolling blackouts, or the rumbling beneath the feet of Allen Greenspan’s successor, must give me pause to wonder, “Do I smell something burning?”
Richard Kaderli,
Categorised in Doonesbury, Lit comments, Star Trek, books, presidential election, semantics, us politics and writing